Geraldton and Albrohos Islands – 26 to 28 April 2010

Geraldton is on the coast with the Chapman and Greenough Rivers to the north and south. It claims the highest lighthouse in WA.

Their excellent program of Geraldton Voluntary Tour Guides, who show you through various sites in the town at nominated times, is a good way to learn about the town. We viewed the St. Francis Xavier Catholic Cathedral commenced 1916 completed 1938.

On a hill overlooking the harbour is the Memorial for the HMAS Sydney II which sank without survivors after engaging the German raider HSK Kormoran on November 19th 1941 north of Geraldton. Months later a decomposed body on a life raft washed up at Christmas island. He was never able to be identified and was buried in Geraldton Cemetery as the unknown sailor.

The highlight of the memorial is a dome of 645 seagulls, one for each sailor on the Sydney, echoing the legend that seagulls represent the souls of lost mariners.

At the centre of the dome is a downward facing propeller, the altar over which hangs the eternal flame of Port and Starboard lights set to bring the sailors home.

Next to the dome is a stele representing the bow of the Sydney. The red Polyantha Roses “Courage” are planted in beds around the dome.

The waiting woman symbolizes the universal woman waiting.  The wall of Remembrance, in black Granite, lists the names of all the sailors lost, ending with the words “and all the rest is silence.”

To the south of Geraldton is the now abandoned settlement of Greenough (Grenuff),  owned and maintained by the National Trust.  It is an example of the small roadside town of the type found in rural communities all over Australia , with life revolving around the school, church and community hall. Tricia moved into such a community at age five in Vermont, Victoria.

The local maritime museum has a fascinating display focused around the Dutch East India [VOC] ship “Batavia” which ran aground on the Morning Reef near the Abrolhos Islands in the early hours June 4, 1629.  The survivors of the 316 passengers were evacuated onto Beacon Island (also known as the Batavia grave site).  The Captain and senior officers sailed to Batavia (Jakarta) for help and while they were gone some of the remaining crew, led by a psychopath Jeronimus Cornelisz, murdered almost half of their fellow passengers, probably 115 people including women and children. This is still the worst maritime atrocity ever committed.  [For those who are interested the book “Batavia’s Graveyard” by Mike Dash is a well researched account.]

 

We took a much happier trip with Batavia Air to the Abrolhos (which loosely translated from the Portuguese means keep your eyes open. )

We went with a regular flight taking cray fishermen out to their shacks on the Islands and then spent the day with the pilot as our guide before returning with the scheduled flight in the afternoon.

We had a great day snorkeling on the reefs, walking around the Island seeing the local wallabies and osprey. We particularly liked the osprey nest which incorporated coca cola cans and light bulbs.  On the way back we saw the significant sites from the Batavia's History.  This was a truly magic day.