Bramwell, Archer River, Musgrave Stations, Endeavour Falls–10 to 14 August 2011

We were sad to leave Seisia, but the time had come to take the long road south. 

We again crossed the Jardine River by Ferry, admiring the grammar correction [“there are/is loose gravel”] on the sign, and chatting with the ferry driver.

We visited Fruit Bat Falls. This is a lovely place but totally overcrowded and with very limited parking so we didn't stay. You and 100 other people are getting away from it all.

We had lunch in a pulloff and drove on to Bramwell Homestead which offers camping and accommodation. It is sited on Bramwell Station, Australia's Northernmost cattle Property.  There is a large shady grassy meadow to camp in and fire circles for fires. It has a kitchen and meals can be bought. The couple running it have leased the area from the Station owners and are hard working and enthusiastic.  Facilities are basic but there are clean hot showers and toilets.

From Bramwell we drove to Archer River Station which is a lovely place to stop.  We had a swim again in the crocodile free Archer River and enjoyed our campfire. It is always pleasant and relaxing there.
 
The wife of the owner of Archer River, who we had met again in Weipa, told us of a very bad accident near Archer River the day before we arrived.  A 4WD traveling close behind in the dust of a Road Train failed to see the left hand curve in the road and went straight into an oncoming 4WD.  He was killed outright and the occupants of the oncoming 4WD were severely injured.

This is a dangerous road to drive on.  We were told of  four fatalities in the previous two weeks. We observed quite a lot of speed and bad driving in our time on the road.  The Road Trains are huge, but with good professional drivers they can travel safely and fast on these roads.  To quote from the  Queensland Government publication, “Driving the Peninsula Development Road” - ‘Overtaking a road train – Firstly ask yourself, ‘Is it really necessary to overtake, and can I see through the dust?’, like the dust shown in the photo below.

We had our first blow out on the van between Archer River and Musgrave Stations.  The van did not sway at all and John managed to pull up within four meters of the outer casing of the tyre, only because he felt the Landcruiser was not pulling as well as it should have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From Archer River we stopped off at Coen for lunch and to pick up our email and then drove to Musgrave Station where we were pleasantly surprised to see our Bushtracker friends Sylvia and Colin, who joined us for dinner.

The next day we traveled through Rinyirru ( Lakefield ) National Park to Cooktown. There were lakes and River Crossings, but these were not too difficult. John and Tricia remembered how excited they were by the first river crossing. Tricia  feels the Landcruiser always smiles when it does a river crossing as if to say, 'This is what I was built for' .  We saw a lot of white waterlilies and one lake with rare red water lilies.

We lunched at Breeza Station, now a collection of tumble down outbuildings and mango trees. Tricia imagines the person planting them dreaming of the shade they would bring.  Now Breeza is a National Park and the Station and its owners long gone.  We then travelled through the Nifold Plain with its various termite mounds to Old Laura Station.

The Old Laura Station is the most complete Station building left in the North. One can imagine it in its hey day, bustling with many people coming and going.

The last leg of our drive was glorious with wonderful views round every corner as we descended the Great Dividing Range. We spent the night at the Endeavor Falls Holiday Park on the Escarpment just out of Cooktown.  In the morning we visited the Endeavour Falls, before driving on to Cooktown.

Cape York- 7 to 9 August 2011

We had done a lot of driving and decided to have some down time.
The local Year 7's were having a fundraiser car wash so they could travel down to Brisbane visit the museums and university. Their teacher wants to expand their horizons.. We had our car washed and for a while had a very clean car. Since there is about 15 k of bitumen it didn't last long. So much bad stuff is written about these kids but they are just normal children doing normal things. 

We went to look at some of the plane wrecks from WW2, a DC3 and Beaufort bomber. The most touching was the DC3 which went down killing all six on board just short of the runway. It is still largely intact including the rubber on its rear tyre. It must have been a horrible place to fly especially during the wet and many planes are lying peacefully rusting among the vegetation. We saw large numbers of fuel dumps. There were more than 10,000 men here with very little to indicate their presence now.

One of the things we wanted to do was take a helicopter flight over the region. This was a magnificent trip and worth every penny.
We flew over the mouth of Jardine River and over the Jacky Jacky Creek.  We crosssed both the Old Telegraph Track and the By Pass Road.

We flew over Somerset and up the tip then down to Punsand Bay.

Then we went out over the Torres Strait. We saw Possession Island where Captain James Cook planted the Union Jack on the 17th of August 177o and claimed the whole of the Eastern Coast,naming it New South Wales, for Britain before sailing away into History.

We flew over Horn Island, Thursday Island, Prince of Wales island and many others before returning to Red Island and Seisia.

It was a great trip.
We pottered around the town, rested, enjoyed the beautiful scenery and the sunset.

Cape York Morton Telegraph Station 2

From Weipa we drove to Morton Telegraph Station, planning a short lunch stop. A loud squeak from the van convinced us otherwise and we stayed to replace the pivot block in the suspension. There didn't seem much point in going on and we stayed the night.

There are pleasant well cared for grounds and we had a nice shady camp under a mango tree.

The old Telegraph Station House is long gone. There is a very nice walk to Cave Creek, a natural rock bridge, and on past the lagoon.

The site offers limited facilities, cool drinks, meat pies, pasties etc. it is really set up for bus groups.

Cape York -Thursday Island–6 August 2011

Nobody knows who named Thursday Island .

Captain Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty fame named Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday Islands but doesn't mention Thursday. Someone must have decided to continue the series.

Thursday Island was chosen as the administrative centre for the area as it has a good harbor. All the towns from Weipa up are supplied by boat so this is very important.

Australia's boundary goes nearly to New Guinea here and as it is a complex border to manage there are a lot of public servants in residence.

 

 

We went to Thursday Island from Seisia with Peddells Tours on the Strait Magic. They operate a bus tour around the Island. After that bus tour is finished one can also go to Horn Island to see the WW2 historic sites but we chose to remain on Thursday Island.

Pinctada Maxima and Trochus shell was harvested here for haberdashery with some pearl as a by product. We visited the cemetery and saw the Japanese Pearl Divers Memorial. The Japanese were brought in after the Samoans went on strike.

We then went to the Green Hill Fort. This was built to protect us from the Russians. It only ever fired one shot in anger across the bows of a ship who refused to declare her name during WWI. She promptly declared her name and things went back to normal.

Under the fort in the storerooms there is a very interesting small museum documenting the History of the area.

This was a very busy area during WW2. Horn Island , opposite Thursday was bombed 8 times. There were many planes in the area and dogfights going on frequently. Thursday Island was not bombed and rumor has it that this was because a Japanese Princess was buried in the Island’s cemetery.

After the tour we went to the markets, genuinely local, and bought some tea.

We then went to the Gab Titui Cultural Centre. This is well worth seeing. It is well curated and has interesting artifacts. It also showcases work by local artists which can be bought. Within the centre there is a lovely little cafe called Ilan Life. They have great coffee and a nice range of meal choices.
As Torres Strait is so dangerous ships going through it have a pilot. The pilots are based on Thursday Island.

The Island has three pubs, this one Australia’s northernmost hotel, and numerous churches.  This one an Anglican Cathedral built as a memorial to the 133 souls lost when the SS Quetta with a pilot in command sank in the Adolphus Channel on 28 February 1890 when it struck an uncharted rock.

Cape York- the Tip, Punsand Bay and Somerset–5 August 2011

We drove up to the tip stopping at the Croc Store on the way. The Croc store has quality Australian Souvenirs. They give you a free one page map and description of everything you need to see in this part of the world which is well worth having.

It is an easy walk out to the tip especially at low tide when the sand flats are exposed. Here one is on the East and the West Coast of Australia at the same time.

Views to the East, South and West

We reached the tip.  The nothernmost point of the Australian Continent.
When we had taken a zillion photographs we went on to Punsand Bay for lunch. This is a camping spot / resort with a good kitchen. It is very attractive but too tight for our caravan.

From there we drove to Somerset. Somerset was established on the 21 August 1854 as a sign of British occupancy and a safe haven for sailors. With cannibals and head hunters in New Guinea and warlike Torres Strait and Cape Tribes shipwrecked sailors didn't stand much of a chance of surviving. Somerset was the administrative headquarters of the Northern Peninsula Area (NPA). John Jardine was placed in charge of the settlement, until he was succeeded by Captain Simpson in 1866. Soon after Frank Jardine was appointed Magistrate of the Territory and Chief Police Inspector a job he held until 1873. He was a tough man and the local aboriginals are reputed to have dug him up after his death and buried him head down so he would trouble them no more. They called him debbil debbil Jardine.

The Jardines had various commercial interests at Somerset, including pearling and cattle and are famed for the cattle drive they did in 1864-1865 to establish the Station.

Torres Strait is at the meeting place of two seas, the Coral Sea and the Arafura sea. This means there are different tides at each end. This results in strong currents and variable tide patterns. Sea levels are unpredictable and even now are taken from real time observations for the boats going through. Somerset was a difficult harbor and the administrative centre was relocated to Thursday Island which has a better harbor. The Jardines and related families continued to live and work at Somerset until they were evacuated during WW2 . They never returned. The house burnt down in the 1960's. Now all that is left is the cemetery, a couple of monuments and some guns.

The Somerset Beach is a nice spot for a picnic or an overnight camp. It has a shelter and a composting toilet.