Beltana Homestead - 16 to 23 July 2009

From Wilpena we drove to Blinman and then towards Leigh Creek.

Blinman is yet another copper mining town.

It has survived the closing of the mine to become a way stop for those going North, proving that good coffee and clean toilets will keep any town going. There is an excellent cafe 'The Wild Lime Cafe" with great coffee and exotic pies such as Red Curry Kangaroo.

Driving from Blinman we saw a sign for Beltana Homestead and enquired if we could stay for the night, which we did.

  

That evening we drove the 45kms south to the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna, to eat what they call “Feral Cuisine.”

 

 

John had the "Road Kill Grill" comprising Kangaroo and Emu fillets and Camel sausage. Tricia more conservatively ate the National Coat of Arms, starting with Emu Pate and Wattle Seed lavosh and finishing with grilled kangaroo. The food was great.

Beltana is 463,000 acres of working sheep and cattle station, very significant in the development of outback Australia and now on the Historic Register.

It is the Station where Elders Pastoral Company started. Sir Thomas Elder, the second owner, imported the first Camels and Beltana became one of the most successful breeding studs and largest depots for camels in Australia. The camels were very useful in opening up the very dry inland with their Indian [colloquially known as Afghan] camel drivers.

In 1875 Ernest Giles’ Expedition set off from the Homestead to find an overland route to Perth.  He succeeded but failed to find the rich grazing lands so no reward for him.

We found the Homestead with its 1860 vintage shearers quarters shown here, an ideal base for exploring the surrounding region, so stayed for the week. Evenings brought Graham the owner and the other hands back to the workshop next to the shearing shed, where the days activities were discussed. Sunset brought an amazing stillness as we lit the evening fire to cook dinner and watched the stars, so bright and clear that at first even well known constellations such as the Southern Cross seemed unfamiliar, surrounded as they are by many more stars than we are used to seeing.

Over the following days we visited Beltana Township, another historic copper town. Although largely abandoned, some is preserved, including significant buildings such as the Victoria Hotel, shown left and a Nursing home started by the Australian Inland Mission. In 1911 Beltana was briefly the Parish of John Flynn who took two fledgling and unproven technologies, the pedal radio and the aeroplane and melded them to form the Flying Doctor Service thus bringing medical care to isolated communities. This was his church. He was a superintendant of the Australian Inland Mission and his vision was to have a hospital and nursing home within 100 miles of the place of residence of every outback woman and child.

Beltana was for a while the railhead for the first Ghan railway and a repeater station for the overland Telegraph which went via Adelaide and Darwin to London. The main north road went through the town. Realignment of the railway and the road and closure of the mine meant it no longer had a reason for being.

The following day we hiked to Blinman Pools, which were reached from Angorichina after a 5km rock scramble, made harder because of the recent rains.

On the 20th we decided to drive the 4wd track to Lake Torrens.  This went well until we came to the third and final sand hill blown across the track and failed to traverse it, getting ourselves bogged.

After two hours of digging to no avail we contacted the Homestead and two of the station hands came to tow us out so we could continue on our trip to the lake. It shows the value of having radio and phone contact with the station, as it was not hard to imagine how isolated and helpless we would have been without the ability to get help. It is not surprising the unprepared die in this country every year.

The next day after that excitement, we had a very sedate walk around historic Blinman. Tricia had emu pie for lunch this time.

 

We drove back through Glass Gorge which has stunning vies of Wilpena Pound and the Flinders Ranges.

 

The following day we did the 4wd track to Puttapa Springs.  Puttapa Station is the home of the Ragless family.  Graham Ragless now owns both Puttapa and Beltana Stations and runs them as a combined operation with his wife Laura. 

 

We enjoyed our time at Beltana, the historic buildings, still in use today, the varied landscapes and particularly the chance to see the rhythm of the working day for those who live on the Station and to learn how an operation like this runs and survives despite the harsh and challenging environment.

Rawnsley Park, Wilpena Pound - 11 to 15 July 2009

It was raining when we left Argadells giving us our first really challenging drive. Although the back road to Hawker is supposed to be all weather, in places the limestone topping wore through to the red soil below, which is like powder and when wet is sticky and very slippery. Even crawling along in low ratio 4wd at times the car and van were both sliding sideways.

We crossed Willochra Creek which was rising. It is unnerving to see how fast these dry creek beds fill.

The dangers are obvious, as shown by Hugh Probies grave near Willochra Creek. He was the 3rd son of an Earl who came out to take up the lease on Kanaka Station. He was only 23 when he drowned in Willochra Creek while chasing stampeding cattle. His grieving sisters shipped out one and a half tons of granite for his memorial. This must have challenged the bullock team who hauled it from the ship to this remote location. He is probably better known now than if he had lived. Kanaka Station was later abandoned and is now in ruins.

We also passed Simmonstown, a classic boom town which never was, with an hotel and shops built and land sold by property speculators for the boom which would come when it became a stop on the Ghan railroad. Perfect, except that the train went 18km to the east of the town. This is the remains of the hotel.

We stayed at Rawnsley Park Station which is just outside of Wilpena Pound. This is very well run, and set up for the many tourists who come to Wilpena, including an excellent Restaurant "The Woolshed".

We took a flight over Wilpena Pound, the Heysen Ranges and Chace Ranges, which is the only way to truly appreciate the spectacular geology.



The whole Flinders ranges was originally a 15km deep trench between two major tectonic plates, and when most of Australia was inundated by sea, sediment was laid down in the trench eventually forming layers of sedimentary rock. Then as the plates moved together the sedimentary layers were buckled and exposed to weathering.

This gives Geologists a chance to study rock sequentially over aeons of time. The sediment from the first 200 million years has weathered away, but the period 543 to 600 million revealed the fossil impressions of the first multicellular animals and the Ediacaran Period is now named after this area.

We moved into a camping area within Wilpena Pound, and took a guided tour through Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges to really understand the geology of the area.

The next day it rained heavily so we delayed our walk into Wilpena Pound and lookouts until the following day. Wilpena Pound is a circle of mountains with a small gorge entry and a spring. Stock could easily be contained.












We saw the Hill homestead within the Wilpena Pound, more of an outstation really. The government of the era required them to carry too many sheep for this kind of country as a conditon of the lease and all the saltbush was eaten out in 15 years. They then tried wheat, the mantra being that "rains would follow the plough" which was quite successful in good years but the rains failed too often. Finally a storm on Christmas Day 1906 washed them out completely, including the road through the gorge they had taken years to build. After this the Hill family gave up wheat and ran stock until the lease expired.

It is best now as a National Park. Recent rains mean it is as green as many locals have ever seen it.

Argadell's Station - 3 to 11 July 2009

 

We drove from Port Augusta to Quorn and chose to stay at Argadells Sheep Station [another name for a large farm] http://www.argadells.com.au

Because the climate is so harsh farmers can run less than 1 sheep to 10 acres so they need to be huge to be profitable.

Many, like Argadell's also have tourists to provide additional income, and in addition to bush camping they will do up the shearers quarters and have a 4WD track.

 

 

A moon rising over the Flinders Ranges and a moon setting at the back of our campsite.

 

 

While at Argadells we went into Quorn and travelled on the Pichi Richi Railway, which is maintained by a band of railway enthusiasts using the original rolling stock and line of the famous Ghan railway. The original name was the Great Northern Railway but some one saw an afghan camel driver getting off the train and nicknamed it the Afghan Express, shortened to "The Ghan".

The Afghan Express was stopping all Stations and was extremely unreliable often having to wait for rail lines that were washed away or buckled in the heat.

We took the Landcruiser on a challenging 4wd route to the top of Mt. Arden. At the top we had reception for our wireless internet and Trish took the opportunity to set up the computer in the shade to do a Skype Videoconference with one of our children. At this point two bush walkers arrived. They had walked for 3 days to get there through difficult country and they were staggered to see the Landcruiser parked on top of the mountain and gobbsmacked when they realized that a video conference was in progress.

We spent most days walking in the beautiful gorges taking in the scenery and the local wildlife.

Argadells has a population of Yellow footed rock wallabies in Hahnemanns gorge. These were endangered but "Operation Bounce" the release of zoo bred animals and an active program to eradicate foxes - means numbers are increasing.

They are real hams for the camera and once they got used to us they would come quite close. We think this one is saying to its joey "Now straighten your ears for the photographer."

 

We enjoyed Argadells as it was bush camping with hot showers. The Juetts were very hospitable. We had fire rings and could cook camp oven roasts which we like to do. The Iron rings round the fires were thick and transmitted heat so we could toast our feet with a relatively small fire. John believes this photo should be called "Lamb roasting by/on the fire"

 

Port Augusta - 30 June to 2 July 2009

From Burra our next stop was Port Augusta. We travelled there on a very windy day. On the road we saw a road train blown into a paddock, fortunately the driver was not injured. In Adelaide a semi trailer was blown over.

Port Augusta has a lovely old Hotel called the Standpipe Hotel. This is where the water pipe that came under the Spencer Gulf ended and there was a standpipe for the bullock drivers to water their bullocks. Naturally a hotel was built for the Bullockies. It has been renovated and is now a fine Indian Restaurant.

Port Augusta is a cross roads of Australia and the beginning of the Outback. We visited the Royal Flying Doctor service which is very impressive. Their brief is that Isolated People should receive the same standard of care as city people. They evacuate people in emergencies but also conduct travelling clinics and take Specialists around for Consultations.

A lot of their day to day work is done over the phone and people have a full medical kit in their homes for treatment. We saw the School of the Air but they do not run tours.

Then we went up the water tank for the views and drove around the town.

We saw the new Ghan which goes from Adelaide to Darwin. It looked beautiful.

The second day we went on the DekyZane to the head of the Gulf.

Our guide was very informative. The Spencer gulf is a reverse saline Gulf as no Rivers run into it. It also is one of two places in the world where there is a dodge tide. This is when the Sun and the Moon are directly opposite and the forces cancel each other out so there is no change in water levels.

Some Dolphins swam with our boat they like the low pressure area near the bow.

We briefly visited Whyalla, a steel town and visited the Wadlata Outback Centre. This takes one through the History of the Outback from primeval Soup to present day and I think is a must do as it gives one an understanding of what one sees later.

Back to Melbourne - 25 to 29 June

From Burra we went back to Melbourne by plane to attend a function for one of our friends who was retiring.

Burra - 21 to 24 June 2009

We drove to Burra on 21 June. Burra is an historical Copper mining town. Mining began in 1845 and saved the new state of South Australia from possible bankruptcy, a familiar story even today - with different mines and including some other states.

There were a few smaller mines but the big mine was the Monster Mine which averaged returns of 400% per annum over its productive life. Burra was settled by the Cornish diaspora.

The National Trust here rents you a key and you can let yourself into the historic sites. This frees you from time constraints although some sites are still only open at certain times. The first day we rode our bikes and saw the Bon Accord Mine and various historical sites including Redruth Gaol, which became a reformatory for girls and is now used as a function centre. Is a gaol the best place for a wedding?

 

The second day visited the Monster Mine site and the tower built to house the steam pump which kept water out of the mine. Cornishmen were the techo's of their era, doing a lot to perfect the steam engine and mine engineering. The copper was below the level of the Great Artesian Basin and over 3,000,000 gallons of water had to be pumped out every day.

The Monster Mine closed in 1877 . It was re opened in 1981 as an open cut mine when the price of copper rose but is closed at present . Now the refining capacity is used to recycle copper.

  

  The town is full of historic buildings. Cornish cottages and the cellars of the old Unicorn brewery.

 

It even has its share of historic people - like this local in his 1913 Newton Bennet - which he learned to drive  in 1936. Condition of the car and driver - both original.

Port Vincent - 14 to 20 June 2009

  We left Adelaide for the Yorke Peninsula.

Port Vincent - after traveling around the Peninsula seems one of the best spots to stay - and by luck we found it on the first day. It has a great coffee shop and the Ventnor Hotel. We met many locals there.
The Yorke Peninsula is one of the worlds biggest barley growing areas.

It was also a copper mining area and is part of the Cornish Diaspora as many Cornish miners came to settle. 

Driving around the Yorke Peninsula allowed us to see both the Wind Farm Ballet and the Cormorant Ballet with a well executed "pas de deux"

 
 






 
But we think the Cormorants won the day with their finale - "hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil" 

 

We had days of perfect sunshine, and then moody skies and rain, very welcomed by the local farmers. John went to the local football as a guest of one of the locals - a great community experience, particularly as the local team won.

 
Jupiter rising over the St Vincent Gulf with the lights of Adelaide illuminating the clouds
 
The Pelicans were a continuing source of amusement as they either sunned themselves or huddled in a group - reluctant to spend too much energy in flying.

Around Adelaide - 6 to 13 June 2009

We spent this week visiting friends in and around Adelaide.




We stayed on a Prize winning Belted Galloway stud farm at Echunga in the Adelaide Hills near to the German settled town of Hahndorf.









and then at a beachfront caravan park at Seacliffe - a small seaside suburb of Adelaide - originally designed to be like an English fishing village - complete with narrow streets and dead ends.

Port Elliot and Fleurieu Peninsula - 3 to 6 June 2009

 

On 3 June we drove to Port Elliot on the Fleurieu Peninsula.

Another absolute beach front location, with a well developed bike trail going from Victor Harbour to Goolwa. We became committed whale watchers , it is quite addictive - two Southern Right Whales came into the bay, probably so one of them could have its baby. One whale has the baby and the other pushes it to the surface so it can breathe. At times they were within 150 meters of the shore, so close you could hear them breathing.  
 

This is also the home of Maclarenvale, and there are many excellent wineries with a thriving and sophisticated food culture.  It was here we ate at Locavore, as in local eater. Everything served at this Restaurant is sourced from within 100 miles, a statement on food miles and a luxury of a rich and varied food producing area.

Robe to Coorong - 31 May to 2 June 2009

On 31 May we drove to Robe, via Beachport, home of South Australia's second longest jetty.

Work on the Jetty began in early 1878 but in August 1878 it was stopped and a Royal Commission set up, part of the then lawyer led recovery. It was then built by the Government and has been somewhat controversial ever since. It was meant to be 4000' long but is in fact now 2536' and is still much longer than is needed for the Port now - but it is just in the process of being refurbished.

No doubt the less than 10 Cray boats moored in the lee of the pier appreciate it being in tip top condition, and once you have the second longest pier you need to keep it up!!




We drove on to Robe, another fishing Port, the best of a bad lot according to the histories. They must have been desperate for a Port in this area. Robe is nice, it has very sophisticated eateries and is an attractive town that has made the most of its old buildings.








There is a nice hotel called The Caledonian dating from the 1850's which serves lovely meals and is also full of atmosphere and wood fires. Robe was the seaside escape for the local graziers as well as a Port. These ports were mainly to get the wool clip out, now the towns seem to export sea food.

We then moved on to the Coorong camping at the aboriginal owned and run Coorong Wilderness Lodge.

It is very pretty except for the cloud of mosquitos that descended at twilight.  Even the cold did not seem to deter them.

We were the only people there - it was quiet and later on the skies cleared and the stars shone and you could hear the sound of the distant surf. 
 
For those in financial markets looking for "black swan" events there were plenty to see in the Coorong.